As you say a very enjoyable Thursday puzzle.   Some good clues, 5a, 18a and I have always liked a 16d!  Thanks to the setter and BD for the hints.   Now for the Toughie, we have had a lot of very enetntairing puzzles in the last couple of weeks, but today my advice would be that unless you want to  end up feeling miserable and slightly cross, do something else. Oh, I had better say, in my opinion, or I will be in trouble!

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